Caring for Furniture

Vacuum regularly with upholstery attachment tools, the broad-throated one to dislodge dust from flat surfaces, including cushions, and the crevice tool to reach the inner corner. Turn over loose seat and back cushions and throw pillows every few weeks to distribute the wear evenly. Unless you have a washable slipcover, never remove and wash cushion covers, the zippers are there solely to aid the 'dressing' process as the piece is manufactured.

Cleaning Codes
Many new sofas and chairs come with a care label indicating the type of cleaning required. The code classifications are 'W' safe to clean with water or water based cleaners, 'S' dry clean or spot clean with dry cleaning solvents, 'W-S' safe for water or solvent, and 'X' clean only with brush or vacuum. If the spot or stain is small and the fabric has a 'W' cleaning code and has no stain or soil resistant finish, then you may try removing the spot yourself. Always pre-test the solution first.

Pre-testing a Cleaning Solution
Working a hidden area of the upholstery, such as the back side of a skirt or under a cushioned area, pre-test your dry-cleaning fluid or homemade cleaner. If the solution does not spot the fabric when you test it, you have a chance at success in removing the accidental spot. If the solution causes a problem on its own, do not proceed. Instead, blot out as much of the problem as possible and turn the job over to a professional, the sooner the better.

Professional Furniture Cleaning
In most cases, a professional's service will be needed to remove bad spots and stains and deeply ingrained soil. If a friend cannot recommend someone, consult the Yellow Pages of the telephone book under "Furniture Cleaning." Typical methods offered will be steam-cleaning, dry-cleaning and dry foam cleaning. Be aware that any cleaning procedure will destroy the original protective coating on your upholstery. You should apply a new stain-resistant finish; it won't be as effective as the factory-applied one.

Cleaning with Homemade Solution
Read the instructions on the tag to see what type of care is recommended for your fabric. If you can't find that information, have a professional clean the upholstery. It's better to play it safe than to ruin the fabric and need to have the piece reupholstered. For a homemade "W" class cleaner, mix one teaspoon of liquid dish or mild laundry detergent (with no bleach) in a cup of warm water. In another bowl, mix a tablespoon of ammonia with 1/2 cup of water. Pre-test, then dab the solutions alternately on the spot. Blot with a clean damp sponge after each step. When clean, sponge with clear water and blot dry.

Pre-treating Slipcover Spots
The arms and back of washable slipcovers will probably pick up the most soil. If necessary, try pre-treating these areas after removing the slipcover from the furniture but before washing.
With a hand mixer, mix 1/4 cup liquid laundry detergent in one cup of water until it foams up to the consistency of whipped cream. Spread the suds over the soiled area and gently rub them into the fabric. When you see the dirt lifting, scrape off the dirty suds with a spatula. Repeat if necessary.

Washing Slipcovers
Slipcovers should always be professionally dry-cleaned unless they are clearly marked "washable." Give your slipcovers a good shake outdoors before you put them in the washer and check to see if pre-treating for stains is needed. Always wash all the pieces at the same time (though it may take several machine loads) so the colour stays even. Dry on medium to low heat; don't line dry because the weight of the slipcover may distort the fabric. Slipcovers will fit best if you take them out of the dryer before they are completely dry. Put the slipcovers on the frame or cushions while they are slightly damp. Smooth them into place, straightening seams and pinching pleats by hand or with a hand-steamer.

Stain Trouble-shooter
Common types of spots and how to remove them:

Before attempting to remove a liquid stain, blot out as much as possible. Pre-test, then treat the stain immediately. When necessary, follow up with a professional cleaning as soon as you can. Avoid stain removers on fabrics with soil-resistant finishes; they may create new stains.

Alcohol
Blot with a solution of one teaspoon liquid dish detergent in one cup water, then blot clean with a well wrung-out sponge dipped in clear water. If the stain persists, dab on a second solution of one part white vinegar to two parts water. Rinse with a wrung-out sponge and let dry.

Milk and Ice Cream
Blot with a solution of one teaspoon liquid dish detergent in one cup water, then blot clean with a well wrung-out sponge dipped in clear water. If the stain persists, dab on a solution of a half cup water mixed with one teaspoon of ammonia. Rinse with a well wrung-out sponge and let dry.

Candle Wax and Chewing Gum
Put an ice cube in a plastic sandwich bag and hold it against the wax or gum until it freezes hard. Scrape off as much as you can, and dab any remaining stain with dry-cleaner fluid or acetone.

Fruit Juice, Coffee, Tea and Soda
Blot with a solution of one teaspoon of dishwashing liquid in one cup water. For stubborn stains, sponge with a solution of one part vinegar to four parts water. Rinse with a wrung-out sponge and let dry.

Grease Spots
Rub with dry-cleaning fluid and blot with a clean, dry cloth.

Know Your Leather
Understand what you're paying for when buying leather

Leather furniture is available at surprisingly low prices today. However, skin and dye qualities can vary greatly. Aniline-dyed leather is superior to surface-dyed leather. The latter is sometimes called "painted" leather because the dye only coats the surface while the former penetrates the skin and is visible on the back. To check, open a zippered cushion and look at the back. The label will tell you the care needed; if not, seek professional advice. Here are some leather terms you should know.

Split Leather
When a cow's hide is doubled in size by slicing it in half along its thickness, it results in two layers of equal thickness but not equal quality. The "split leather" is the bottom half of the hide, which has no grain, is stretchier, and has poor durability.

Top-grain
The upper layer of a hide that has been split is the superior top-grain. To tell if leather is top-grain, examine it under a magnifying glass. The leather will show tiny natural pores.

Embossed
Also known as "rectified" or "corrected" leather, this leather has had an artificial grain pattern heat set into its surface to imitate a high-quality full-grain leather.

Full-grain
This unsplit leather shows a natural (not embossed) grain.

Leather Maintenance
Leather is treated with a protectant at the tannery, so generally cleaners are not recommended since they can harm the leather finish. Clean up spills immediately, but if a liquid does soak in, blot it with a weak solution of soap and water. Blot up greasy spots as much as possible, but do not use water. In time, the oil will be absorbed into the leather and become part of the natural patina that develops over time. Vacuum leather furniture regularly with the crevice upholstery attachment of your machine. An artist's brush is handy for lifting durst from tufted areas and pleats. Give the leather an occasional wipe with a soft, clean cloth dampened with warm water to retard the build-up of body oils on the surface.